Clicker Training.
Clicker training is a unique system of training your
dog; it involves no force punishment or pulling, instead encourages
desirable behaviour. The clicker is a small plastic box with a metal
tongue, which makes a click-click sound when depressed. The sound
is paired with food rewards so that the dog learns that the clicker
means he has acted correctly and a food reward is on the way. Initially
the clicker should always be backed up with food treats, otherwise
if you click and fail to treat the dog will start to ignore the clicker.
Once taught, commands should be randomly used for perceived rewards
such as going through doors or toy play. The commands may soon be
extended in time and used in different situations and food rewards
may be phased out and replaced with anything which the dog finds rewarding
i.e. fuss/toys,
Teaching the 'Sit'
In order to avoid startling the dog with the noise, hold the clicker
in one hand behind your back or in a pocket. Hold a piece of food
above the dogs head near to the nose, ignore any jumping up, as soon
as his bottom hits the floor, click once and give him the food treat.
Repeat several times. Your dog will soon learn from your body language
that the hand held in the upwards position is a request to sit and
will be rewarded accordingly, once reliable, add the cue word i.e.
'sit' and try to hold the sit for 3-5 seconds if not longer before
clicking and treating.
The clicker is particularly useful during short training
sessions; it reinforces (encourages) desirable behaviour and helps
to teach new behaviours. Once the dog has learned the command, you
do not always need to click and treat, instead verbally praise, and
randomly reward him.
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Puppy Information -
general.
Vaccination
Vaccination times vary, depending on the brand used, most are at nine
and twelve weeks, where as others are eight and ten weeks. The vaccinations
are important to provide immunity against the five main viruses and
are given at a time when maternal antibodies are beginning to reduce.
The main diseases covered are Distemper, Adenovirus, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza
and Leptospirosis. Annual booster vaccinations are required in order
to re-stimulate the immune system.
Worms
Worms are present in nearly ALL puppies; they are usually visible
in the faeces (tapeworm segments), or in vomit (roundworm). Worming
should occur monthly for the first three months, then every three
to six months throughout life.
Fleas
Fleas are now a year round problem which means treatment should occur
regularly in order to kill any fleas and eggs. Many different preparations
are available though stronger, more effective ones are best (usually
sold in vet. Surgeries). It is important to treat the home and carpets
regularly along with the pet.
Insurance
As pet owners you are responsible for any damage caused by your dog,
and all veterinary bills incurred. In some cases veterinary bills
can amount to hundreds, even thousands of pounds. Insurance companies
will generally pay out for unexpected/unavoidable illnesses, they
will not cover preventative treatment (wormers/vaccinations), or routine
surgery (neutering). It is worth looking into the small print as some
will only cover until the pet reaches a certain age though others
will cover for 'life'.
Feeding
It is VITAL that your pet receives adequate vitamins and minerals
for growth and development, the best way to ensure this is by buying
specific 'puppy' food. Although some breeders' recommend cereal and
scrambled eggs they are not recommended by nutritionists as they may
upset the required balance, having a knock on effect on bone growth
and development. Food should be feed as per instructions and at regular
intervals in order to regulate elimination behaviours. Whenever changing
diets, always do so gradually over about five days. Try to ensure
that your puppy is not receiving excessive food additives as this
may have a negative effect on his behaviour.
Neutering
Unless you are planning to breed from your puppy neutering is the
only reliable contraceptive. Neutering will eliminate certain cancers,
and reduce the chance of other cancers or prostatic disease. Neutering
is generally recommended between six and eighteen months of age. For
individual practice policies, consult your veterinary surgeon.
Socialisation
It is very important that your puppy is introduced to as many new
experiences as you can manage, particularly between five and twenty
weeks. The puppies should be introduced to as many different people
as possible, wearing different clothes (including hats and umbrellas).
Take the puppy to different places, such as the Vets, pubs, shops,
groomers, even the beach, and try to travel using different methods
of transport. Allow the puppy to meet different animals, and ensure
the puppy doesn't chase them; all interactions should be plesant and
rewarding for the puppy to help prevent fearful behaviour in adulthood.
Training
Establish house rules as soon as you bring the puppy home, particularly
with regard to sleeping areas and getting on the furniture. Along
with your family decide what is or isn't acceptable behaviour, set
boundaries and be consistent in order to avoid confusing the puppy.
Crate training the puppy is ideal for times when you cannot supervise
him, it will also help in toilet training and provides the puppy a
'safe haven' when he is tired. Obedience training is one of the most
important aspects of your new puppies life. Start with the basics
such as 'sit' or 'down' and work up to more complicated 'tricks'.
Training should take place in frequent, short, bouts always ending
on a positive note. The sooner you are able to start training the
easier it is as the puppy is generally less distracted. The training
should continue to be reinforced until the dog is well into its juvenile
stage - this is when they are most distracted and likely to ignore
you or 'challenge' your authority.
Oral Care
Dental hygiene is as important in pets as it is in humans - the incidence
of gum disease is the same. The sharp puppy teeth, which are important
for learning bite inhibition, will start to fall out around three
months continuing to until the pup is up to seven months. Regular
cleaning is important and should be built up over time, starting as
soon as possible. Your Vet can provide more information.
Microchipping
Identichipping is the implantation of a small microchip under the
dogs skin in the back of neck. It is no bigger than a grain of rice
and is given by injection through a wide gauge needle. This provides
a permanent method of identifying your pet with its own unique number
and is more reliable than collars, which can be removed or lost. There
is however still a legal requirement for your pet to wear a collar
and tag! We are qulified to identichip your pet at a home visit or
at class.
The Law
It is an offence to
· Cruelly treat or abandon an animal.
· Leave faeces in public open places.
· Take your dog into public places, not wearing a collar and
tag.
· Have a dog 'dangerously out of control' in public places.
It is the duty of the person in control of an animal,
to ensure it doesn't cause injury or damage on the road or worry livestock.
If an accident occurs as a direct result of a dog's behaviour the
person in charge will be liable.
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Dogs are naturally hunters, so why do we insist on feeding
them in a bowl at set times? It must be so boring for them. No wonder
most dogs eat so fast, often despite a lack of competition from another,
it is easy for them to do so. Being adventurous with feeding your
dog will help use up excess energy whilst possibly preventing many
behavioural problems. In fact, I often recommend these types of feeding
when treating behavioural problems.
SCATTER FEEDING - simply scatter dry food on the lawn
so that your dog must hunt/forage for his meal. This will use his
sense of smell and keep him entertained for ages. Start easy on the
patio or short grass, building up to scattering food in longer grass
and over a wider area.
HIDE AND SEEK WITH FOOD - hide small parcels of food
around the house or garden. You can use odd socks to put food into
or small paper bags, again start easy and get harder as your dog improves.
BOTTLE FEEDING - Offer dry food in a pop/water bottle.
First discard the lid, then give your dog some of his meal in the
bottle, he must work out how to empty it. Some shake the bottle, others
place a foot on the neck to tip out food or even throw the bottle.
As he gets better you can crush the bottle first so that the food
does not fall out as easily. This is not suitable for glass bottles
or at unsupervised times.
KONG TOY - Fill the Kong with food and let your dog
learn how to empty it, as he improves you can stuff it harder. These
are especially useful with teething puppies and as a distraction when
you have visitors. You may even fill this with food and freeze to
help soothe puppy's gums. Kong toys come in different strengths and
sizes, so check which is best for your dog. Do not leave the Kong
with your dog if he is likely to eat the rubber!
HAVABALL - This is a rounded rubber ball with squared
edges, which randomly dispenses food as it is rolled around. Again,
this toy is good for teething puppies and distracting dogs when you
have company.
WORKING MEALS - This is where you ask your dog to perform
obedience commands for his routine food. For example he may sit/lie
down/go to bed for a piece of kibble. This will really help with your
training and slow down your dog's eating habits.
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Training Tips
Your training is best carried out in short bursts at
regular intervals, i.e. 10 minutes four times daily. Vary your rewards
to prevent boredom and sometimes give jackpot rewards such as a whole
handful of food. Avoid repeating your request as it will soon become
'background noise' to the dog and he will ignore it. Instead, give
a clear request, if necessary, coupled with a hand signal and allow
the dog a few seconds to think about your request before repeating
yourself. Be consistent with commands, 'sit' means bottom on the floor,
and 'down' means lie down; dogs often become confused when we use
too many words or are ambiguous with commands such as 'sit-down'.
Rewards have to be exactly that, dry food may be good enough at home
but you may need to use chicken or cheese in the park when the dog
is distracted. Some dogs prefer fuss and attention or toy play to
food, so be careful to give your dog what he finds rewarding.
As soon as possible ask the dog to work harder for treat
i.e. ask for a 'down-sit-down' for one treat, then request the same
with no food in your hand so that he is not always looking for it.
Educate all family members what is/is not acceptable behaviour and
list the dogs known commands. For example, if you allow the puppy
on the sofa when you are home, he will not know the difference when
you are not. If you have taught the 'down' command and ask the dog
to get down when he jumps on the sofa, he is well within his rights
to lie down on the sofa!
Start to put commands together so that your dog is used
to listening to you, start easy and build up in complexity. For example,
start with 'down'.
Then 'down - sit'.
Then 'down - sit - stand'.
Then 'down - sit - stand - down - stand - sit'.
Or, Heel 10 paces for a piece of food,
Then, heel 20 paces and turn around for a piece of food.
Then, heel 20 paces turn around and heel 20 paces again for a piece
of food.
Then, heel 30 paces, sit for 5 seconds heel twenty more paces and
lie down for one piece of food, etc.
Start to incorporate obedience commands in to every
day life for example ask your dog to sit to go through doors. Practice
the stay at the front door, or when waiting to get out of the car.
The more commands are used, the better the dog becomes at obliging
and the faster they will act upon them.
Above all, enjoy training - it is a joy to own a well,
behaved dog and the dogs are less stressed when they know what is
expected of them. Good Luck.
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